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Its only three years since I last visited Siem Reap, from where visitors travel to visit the temples. In that short time
I am amazed at how much it has grown - almost everywhere new hotels are rising up amongst the dustclouds whilst several
new bars have added to the competition.
Where tourists gather, so do the poor and disabled of Cambodia - begging for food and money. In many respects, the
levels of poverty are so high for the majority here, that many families could probably survive for a month
on what we spend on a moderate night out at home. Its hard to know how to deal with seeing so much 'in your face' poverty
- we are insulated from it at home and live in cultures where individualistic attitudes influence so much.
Whilst its true that Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in the world, its also true that its government and individuals
in positions of power are also some of the most corrupt. A few years ago the US held back aid because the aforemntioned PM,
Mr. Hun Sen appeared to be directing much of it into Swiss Bank Accounts. He seems happy to let both local and International
organisations and NGO's provide what his government should be working towards - healthcare, shelter, decent sanitation and
adequate food and hope for the future. You get the impression in Cambodia that those with wealth hardly notice what is going
on around them. Sound familiar?
The legacy of unexploded mines is here is for all to see. Hundreds of children and adults are killed,
maimed and disabled each year as the vile legacy of past wars and political game playing continues, long after they have served
any use. There are some international agencies working towards mine clearance but it seems a drop in the proverbial ocean
compared to the 'no expense spared' zeal with which nations go to war and leave these weapons to impact upon future
generations.
One person in Siem Reap has been working to do something about this for some time. Aki Ra was forced
to fight for the Khmer Rouge as a boy, forced to fight against the Khmer rouge by the Vietnamese and now dedicated himself
to peace and making Cambodia a safer place. He clears landmines and has opened an impressive museum near to Siem Reap that
is not popular with the authorities. Not popular perhaps because it is out of their control but also because its very existence
is perhaps a testimony to the government's own lack of action here. The museum has in recent years developed into a home
for orphans and other children maimed by mines and abandoned by desperate parents. A truly inspiring place to visit - the
museum is not allowed to charge visitors and relies upon donations and volunteers to keep going. I met one such volunteer
on my visit, a Welsh woman who had been teaching the children English. My participation on this visit at least, was limited
to donating money and playing football on a dusty patch of ground with some of the children living there. Those Cambodian
kids sure do show some nifty footwork with their bare feet!
If you wish to know more about this wonderful project, its invaluable work, plans for the future and maybe make
a donation, visit their website at www.landmine-museum.com
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| How little has changed in the last 30 years? An exhibit at the museum |
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| Just a few of the mines made safe by Aki Ra |
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| It's estimated that 10,000,000 mines remain in Cambodia |
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| My wonderful driver, Hinda, with the museum's very own pet monkey |
I planned on staying at a guesthouse in Siem Reap called Smiley's - mainly because they were related to the owners of
the place I stayed in Phnom Penh. After going out one night, I discovered why they chose that name perhaps, as it was surrounded
by brothels!
Each evening I would have to run the gauntlet to get home with moto drivers and working girls asking me if I wanted
a blow job, hand job or what the locals call "boom boom", and we aren't talking landmines, if you get my drift! Whilst in
different circumstances I can see the merits of all of the above - you have never seen a grown man be quite
so shy, polite and retiring, I was down that alleyway to my guesthouse like a whippet. Not my cup of tea at all - did
they not realise I'm British!
Having said all that, Siem Reap is a great place to visit and just relax for a while. The people here, as in all other
parts of Cambodia are friendly, welcoming, warm and great to spend time with.
Many of the people I met, like the artist who was disabled by polio at the age of three and spent several years training
to perfect his work, or Aki Ra or the countless others who have refused be satisfied with complaining, setting up grass roots
organisations, pooling their energy and expertise to improve the lives of their communities are an inspiration. Their determination
to succeed and improve their lot, inspite of their circumstances is perhaps what the essence of survival and life
is about?
I'm sure it will take me some time to make sense of all this but I am left with great warmth towards Cambodia and feel
very lucky and privileged to have visited for a second time. Something tells me it won't be too long before I return.
As I waited for my flight back to Bangkok at the airport, I must admit to feeling a little rueful at leaving. But
as they say in Cuba - "without sad farewells, there will be no great re-uniouns". Or something like that...
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| My hairdresser in his wooden and cardboard shop by the roadside |
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| Anyone for coconuts? A street scene in Siem Reap |
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| Siem Reap street scene |
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| Local kids take rest and refreshment under the shade of a tree |
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| Me with a local artist from whom I bought a few pictures |
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