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| One of the gates to the magnificent Bayon Temple |
I first travelled to Siem Reap three years ago and was blown away by the beauty and tranqulity of the many temples of
Angkor - built several hundred years ago when the mighty Khmer Empire ruled this region. To even begin to attempt to describe
some of the huge structures and the feelings of awe they inspire is impossible, needless to say that there is a great
sense of wonder and feeling of being spirited away.
I bought my three day pass for $40 and was up at dawn for three days in order to make the most of it. The temples are
spread over a heavily forested area of some 70 square kilometers and it is a truly wonderful experience to ride around on
the back of a moto, dismounting from time to time to wander around this place.
Admittedly, after three days your backside gets a little sore but I can't think of a better reason! It often feels like
you are actually visiting the places that you used to dream about as a child at times - truly amazing and breathtaking, whilst
huge forests shelter you from
the harsh Cambodian sun.
There are so many temples that it's very easy to become 'templed out' but the secret is to not try and do too much in one
day, make sure you just relax and find time to contemplate and take it all in. One of my favourite temples is called Ta Prohm,
which many of you may have seen part of in the Lara Croft movie starring Angelina Jolie. Sadly, no sign of Angelina lurking
amongst the ruins but what a beautiful place! Trees several hundred years old twist and contort themselves between and over
walls, partly protecting and seemingly destroying the temple. Plans are afoot to reduce the damage by removing the trees in
the next few years, so hurry if you want to see it in this condition. This is the stuff of fairy tales!
I also wanted to visit Ta Prohm again to see some musicians I met three years ago who play on the approach to the
temple, down a leafy path, cooled by a refreshing breeze. Amazingly enough they were still there...we talked, they played
and I listened. All of the musicians have serious injuries, are blind or have limbs missing caused by landmines and play
365 days a year to feed their families. They have also now produced a CD of traditional Khmer music for tourists to buy
- at $10 a throw, well worth it.
What I found strange as I sat and listened is how many tourists behave when greeted with the sight of several disabled musicians
in one place. Many hurry by, snatching glances or not looking at all whilst walking as far away as possible from them...very
strange - do they not realise that Cambodia has so many maimed and disfigured people that it is almost synonymous with their
culture these days?
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| Disabled musicians at Ta Prohm, playing traditional Khmer music |
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| That famous tree at Ta Prohm...but sadly, no sign of Angelina Jolie |
I have to admit as I sat there listening to them play, that I felt quite emotional. I'm not certain if it was the
music, the fact that we were meeting again and they made me so welcome or the fact that I'm just a big softy, but it was one
of those special moments that you treasure.
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| Elephant Terrace near to Bayon |
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| Terrace of the Leper King near Bayon |
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| Detail of Terrace of The Leper King |
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| Nun at Ta Prohm |
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| Detail from Ta Prohm |
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| Ta Prohm these days is dwarfed by huge trees |
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| The entrance to enchanting Ta Prohm |
On a hot Cambodian day there is no shortage of refreshments as local people
set up shop in the vicinity to sell cold drinks, refreshing coconuts and a range of tasty snacks. Also, local children sell
souvenirs and you often become bombarded with requests to buy bracelets,scarves,cowbells, or tablecloths,flutes,buddahs,tee
shirts and other less tasteful items. It can be a little overwhelming at times for visitors and I'm sure contributes greatly
to the exhaustion experienced by many visiting the temples but they're a great bunch of kids who appear to have a grasp of
most European and Asian languages.
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| Children selling souvenirs appear from nowhere and are very persuasive! |
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