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| A cloudy day at at the harbour - an impressive sight despite the weather |
It was with great anticipation that I travelled to Hong Kong, former British colony and home to old friends from the
UK but also my last trip here in 2001. The city is actually not that large but makes up for it by building very high - superb,
sparkling designs reaching for the sky. Or in this case the smog - even though the weather here has been generally fine, a
haze hangs over the city that I never noticed before, detracting somewhat from its magnificence and the photo opportunities.
Hong Kong is impressive, home to some great architecture and stunning views from various places around the City
but it is also hideously expensive for accommodation, food and that international barometer of prices - beer. Most places
here a pint will set you back at least US$10, a nightmare for the budget traveler seeking a cool refreshing beverage at the
end of another hard day. (ahem).
I have very mixed feelings about this place, loving to spend time with my friends but feeling hemmed in by the crowded
streets, the apparent and incessant rushing around that everyone seems to do here and the the fact that having a mobile phone
seems to be compulsory at the age of five. Of course I exaggerate (me?) but you get the general idea. Truth is people come
to Hong Kong to make money - and lots of it. Call me old fashioned but I just can't get that excited by that, or the overwhelming
amount of merchant bankers here. Luckily on more than one occasion I escaped the throng to some of the outlying islands such
as Lantau for some walking in the hills and great seafood lunches at refreshingly reasonable prices.
After a couple of weeks I decided to escape the chaos, so bought a Visa for mainland China and set off. Passing through
Shenzhen, I headed for Guangzhou one of the most fast developing cities in China where I would spend the night before heading
for Guillin and my intended destination, the beautiful and tranquil Yangshuo.
Whilst in many respects visiting the mainland is like stepping back in time thirty years, China is developing at
a fast pace, construction work dominates most cities - huge buildings dominating the skyline clad in bamboo scaffolding whilst
choking smog seems the norm. Many of the new buildings are impressive but so many are also functional but very unattractive
to the eye. I stayed overnight on Shaimen Island, Guangzhou, former home of the colonial powers which boasts some impressive
buildings that leave you with the sense that you are actually in 19th Century Europe. Leafy boulevards and quiet streets confusing
the senses in impressive style. Whilst there I read a copy of Michael Palin's 'Around The World In Eighty Days' originally
published n 1988, he describes Guangzhou as being quiet and undeveloped with bicycles dominating the morning rush hour. How
much has changed in just 14 years, outside of the island Guangzhou is a hectic and choking mass of traffic.
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| Impressively restored, this colonial building is now a restaurant and coffee house |
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| European style architecture makes Shaimen Island a welcome escape from the throng that is Guangzhou |
I booked a ticket on the overnight train to Guillin, pleased to be moving
onto my final destination, Yangshuo. Overnight train journeys are always an adventure in China though there is nothing like
trying to actually find the train in the huge and confusing train stations in the first instance to raise the levels of anxiety
for the foreign traveler. Stations are packed with travelers but there are absoloutely no signs in English. With a few minutes
to spare I found my train, carriage and berth. I was prepared with a selection of snacks fit for the champion of couch
potatoes and therefore very happy to munch and doze my way through the journey. The trains are reasonably comfortable as they
trundle through the darkness but a combination of excitement and noisy passengers ensured that I arrived in Guillin
at 6.30 a.m. having not slept, bleary eyed and bewildered. I hopped straight on a bus to Yangshuo and had soon booked
into a hostel within minutes of my rain drenched arrival. For those not familiar with Yangshuo, it is where East meets West
- a small town on the banks of the River Li surrounded by stunning scenery, tall limestone peaks straight out of antique
paintings, skirted by huge bamboo plants akin to giant feathers. The perfect place for any adventurer to begin a trip to China.
For just a few Yuan, a bike can be hired for the day to explore the local area, you can drift down the river on
bamboo rafts marvelling at the stunning scenery and return to the village for good food and cheap beer at numerous cafes and
restaurants. For the record, I did find the cheapest bar in town with a huge bottle of the local beer for the equivalent
of around 30p. Now that's more like it!
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| A little cloudy but a breathtaking view of the peaks from the top of Moon Hill, near Yangshuo |
All in all I had a great time in Yangshuo and met some great people, a
lovely couple of travellers from Denmark (who also made great drinking partners) and a local couple who taught me to make
dumplings at their home. I also accompanied a friend to his school where he teaches, to assist with a couple of lessons. This
involved me having to open the lesson by singing a song. Having not sung in public since a terrifying appearance as a
nine year old in the school play (an Elvis impersonation would you believe - stick on hairy chest and all), I was temporarily
mortified but managed to pull it off.
Sadly for the 42 class mates, the only song I could remember was a version
of 'I'm Forever Blowing Bubbles', the theme song for my beloved West Ham. To be honest, I could have sung the theme tune from
an advertisement for dental floss and they would have applauded enthusiastically, even rapturously as they did. Are all schoolchildren
that easy to please?
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| Building a road the old fashioned way in a village near Yangshuo |
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| Hanging around watching passers by in Yangshuo town |
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| Schoolkids catching a lift home for lunch |
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| This woman is clearly overwhelmed with my presence |
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| Drifting down the river at dusk near Yangshuo is a peaceful and mystical experience |
All told I spent several days in and around Yangshuo, having a thoroughly
enjoyable time. I met some great people, got plenty of exercise, observed first hand the Chinese national pastimes of card
playing & knitting and recognised that as a possible venue for English teaching, there remains plenty of potential.
In Yangshuo for example, you can stay at the Three Wells Gust House - the rooms may be a little drafty but
its all very entertaining. You would think that with so many tourists around that at least one would have said something?
Whilst in the area I also took a three hour bus journey to a place called Longsheng, home of the Yao people and their
800 year old rice terraces. Its a truly beautiful place that left me speechless, so dramatic is the sight that greets your
eyes. You can walk in the hills for hours, every step taking you higher and higher above the Autumnal cloud cover - at this
time of year, the scenery is perhaps the least attractive due to the fact that the rice crop has been harvested and the
weather is unpredictable. The result is akin to a wintry & ornate version of the Yorkshire Moors at their spooky
best. Indeed, Heathcliffe would not have looked out of place wandering about the peaks. A true antedote for travellers weary
of cities and tourist traps. Having said that, the local Yao women with their long black tresses that reach their ankles don't
miss a trick. Within minutes of my arrival at the highest hotel in the region, they appeared out of the mist in their colourful
clothes to make business. Now hardened by several months in Asia I haggled, negotiated and purchased numerous
items for which I have absoloutely no use at all. So we were all happy...not sure what on earth I am going to do with my new
posessions but in true Olympic spirit, its the taking part thats important. (At least, that is what I shall be telling my
bank manager). I am just so soft when it comes to a local with a sweet smile and a bundle of colourful souvenirs,
even if they are of absoloutely no use at all.
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| Incredible - the 800 year old rice terraces at Longsheung |
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| So that is where the idea for ordinance survey maps originated! |
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| Word soon spread that I had arrived and local Yao appeared out of the mist to do business |
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| One almost expects Heathcliffe to appear out of the mist, which seems to have a life of its own |
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| Me with the cook at my favourite (i.e. cheap) bar. I have no idea what I was doing with my left arm, |
After an overnight stay in the hills I returned to Yangshuo to spend a few days mooching about and making the most of
the beautiful scenery. Unfortunately the weather became wet and wintry and I was forced to spend most of my last few days
frequenting local bars and cafes, how unfortunate. It was there that I met quite a few Chinese tourists and students
studying locally. Their insatiable appetite for the English language is impressive but after two days of being asked
the same questions over and over, I was ready to bid a fond farewell to Yangshuo. I took a nine hour bus trip to Guangzhou
where I spent the night and hooked up with a colleage from my TESOL course who is living there. I have now returned to Hong
Kong and will spend the next week or so planning my next move to Taiwan.
I must admit to feeling a little travel weary after almost five months of care free travel. I can almost imagine you
raising your eyebrows as you settle in for winter and seemingly endless months of work before your next holiday. However,
I am reaching the stage when I just want a place of my own and a job so that I can utilise my under used brain again. However,
before then I will visit Taiwan briefly and have spend a month or so on a Thai beach completing my relaxation research programme,
preparing for the challenge that will be finding a life in Cambodia.
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